Rollaclub - User contributions [en]

KE1x Rear Diff - convert to 4x114.3

2012-07-09T00:02:09Z

Philbey: Created page with " Australian built KE1x (the AMC versions) are fitted with the same Borg Warner rear diff as a Datsun 1200, which runs a 4x114.3 stud pattern. There may be options to swap axl..."

Australian built KE1x (the AMC versions) are fitted with the same Borg Warner rear diff as a Datsun 1200, which runs a 4x114.3 stud pattern.

There may be options to swap axles over into the KE1x diff to get a more useful pattern on the rear. TO BE CONFIRMED.

More discussion here.
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/61286-ke10-4x1143-conversion-bolt-on-conversion-read-if-interested/

Main Page Old

2012-07-09T00:00:13Z

Philbey: /* Drivetrain */

'''Welcome to the Rollaclub FAQ'''

This FAQ Has been migrated to WIKI format from the Oldcorollas FAQ, maintained by Super Jamie.

Further Discussion of any articles here may be made on the:
[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oldcorollas/ Old Corollas Yahoo Group]
andhttp://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page
[http://www.rollaclub.com/board/ Rollaclub Messageboard]

=Series=

==K==

===Model===

====KE10/11/15/16/17/18====

*[[Series:K/Model/KE10/11/15/16/17/18/Template|Template]]

====KE20/25====

*[[Series:K/Model/KE20/25/Template|Template]]

====KE30/35/36/38====

*[[Series:K/Model/KE30/35/36/38/Template|Template]]

====KE50/55====

*[[Series:K/Model/KE50/KE55/Template|Template]]
*[[Series:K/Model/KE50/KE55/Ke55 Round Headlight Conversion|Ke55 Round Headlight Conversion]]

====KE70====

*[[Series:K/Model/AE70/71/85/86/Template|Panel Interchanability]]
*[[Series:K/Model/AE70/71/85/86/Template1|Brakes]]
*[[Series:K/Model/AE70/71/85/86/Template|Suspension]]
*[[Series:K/Model/AE70/71/85/86/|How to put a 4age into your ke70]]

==A==

===Model===

====AE70/71/85/86====

*[[Series:A/Model/AE70/71/85/86/Template|Template]]

*[[Series:A/Model/AE70/71/85/86/RWD 4age Part Numbers|RWD 4age Part Numbers]]

*[[Series:A/Model/AE70/71/85/86/Installing An Electronic Distributor|Installing An Electronic Distributor]]

====AE80/82====

*[[Series:A/Model/AE80/82/AE80/82 Body Panels|AE80/82 Body Panels]]

*[[Series:A/Model/AE80/82/4age Diagnostic System|AE82 4age Diagnostic System]]

*[[Series:A/Model/AE80/82/Converting To Twincam|Converting To Twincam]]

*[[Series:A/Model/AE80/82/How To Identify A Series 3 Twincam|How To Identify A Series 3 Twincam]]

*[[Series:A/Model/AE80/82/Making A Fuel Pump Access Panel|Making A Fuel Pump Access Panel]]

*[[Series:A/Model/AE80/82/Removed The Aircon And The Thermo Now Runs?|Removed The Aircon And The Thermo Now Runs?]]

====AE90/92/93/94/95====

*[[Series:A/Model/AE90/92/93/94/95Template|Template]]

= Tech =

== Engine ==

=== K Series ===

==== General Information ====

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Alternator|Alternator]]

*[[Tech:Engine/K Series/80Amp Alternator Upgrade|80Amp Alternator Upgrade]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft|Camshaft]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Push Rods|Push Rods]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Carburettor|Carburettor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Heads|Cylinder Heads]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Intake manifolds|Intake manifolds]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distributor|Distributor]]

*[[Tech:Engine/K Series/How to wire a 5k electronic distributor|How to wire a 5k electronic distributor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/EFI|Electronic Fuel Injection]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Emissions System|Emissions System]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Exhaust|Exhaust]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Flywheel|Flywheel]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Filter|Fuel Filter]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Pump|Fuel Pump]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor|How To Build A Tough 'K' Motor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted K motors|Boosted K motors]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/How To Fix K Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)|How To Fix 'K' Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/K|KE1x Series 'K' Engine Specific Info]]

[[Tech:Engine/Mounts|Mounts]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distrib|Nippon Denso Distributor Part Numbers]]

[[Oil Pump]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Starter Motor|Starter Motor]]

[[Sump]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Torque_Settings|Torque Settings]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve Clearances|Valve Clearances]]

[[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD Uprite Kit|TRD Upright Kit]]

[[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD|How to build a TRD spec Upright motor!]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4kstall|What Is A Fuel Solenoid?]]

==== K (1077cc) ====

==== 2K (993cc) ====

==== 3K (1166cc) ====

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Bigport Head|Bigport Head]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Factory Twin Carbs|Factory Twin Carbs]]

==== 4K (1290cc) ====

'''------------4K-C'''

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-C/4K-C Emission System Diagram|4K-C Emission System Diagram]]

'''------------4K-E'''

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Injectors|Injectors]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Rocker Cover|Rocker Cover]]

==== 5K (1496cc) ====

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion|5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion]]

==== 7K (1812cc) ====

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes|Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes]]

=== A Series ===

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/A-Series Engine FAQ|A-Series Engine FAQ]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Alternator Wiring Diagram|Alternator Wiring Diagram]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Cooling Guide|Cooling Guide]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Crossmembers|Crossmembers]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/ECU Pinouts|ECU Pinouts]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/External Thermostat|External Thermostat]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Heads|Heads]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Injectors|Injectors]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank|Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Internals|Internals]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rear Water Outlet|Rear Water Outlet]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rebuilding Your 4ag(z)e|Rebuilding Your 4AG(Z)E]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Replacing Your Timing Belt|Replacing Your Timing Belt]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/TVIS|What Is TVIS?]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Wiring Diagrams|Wiring Diagrams]]

[[Removing the Air Bypass Valve on a 4agze]]

=== S Series ===

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/Head|Head]]

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/EFI|EFI]]

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]

=== T Series ===

[[Tech:Engine/T Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/T Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]

=== E Series ===
[[Tech:Engine/E Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

== [[:Category:Fuel System | Fuel System]] ==

[[EFI]]

[[Fuel]]

[[How To Set Up Your Fuel System]]

== [[:Category: Drivetrain | Drivetrain]] ==

(In logical order of drivetrain after the flywheel)

[[Tech:Drivetrain/Bellhousing|Bellhousing]]

[[Clutch]]

[[Automatic Gearbox]]

[[Manual Gearbox]]

* [[Removing Spigot Bearings]]

[[Tailshaft]]

[[Differential Gears]]

[[Differential Housing]]

* [[KE1x Rear Diff - convert to 4x114.3]]

[[Axles]]

KE30/55
* [[Upgrades:Hilux Diff Conversion| Hilux Diff Conversion Into KE55]]

--[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 12:46, 18 Jul 2005 (EST)

== Suspension ==
===General tips and hints===

* [[Maintenance:Suspension/Control Arm Bushes| Control Arm Bushes]]

* [[Rear Leaf Springs]]

* [[Stud Pattern]]

=== KE1x Suspension ===

* [[Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x]]

* [[Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts]]

* [[Suspension:KE1x Suspension/Tie Rods|Tie Rods]]

* [[Suspension:KE1x Suspension/Front Spring Upper Seats|Front Spring Upper Seats]]

=== KE2x Suspension ===
=== KE3x Suspension ===
[[KE55 Front Strut Upgrades]]

[[KE30/35/36/38/50/55/55p Suspension]]

=== KE5x Suspension ===
[[KE55 Front Strut Upgrades]]
=== KE7x Suspension ===
[[Upgrades:Sigma Control Arms| Sigma Control Arms]]

== Brakes ==

[[Front Disc Brakes]]

[[Rear Disc Brakes]]

== Electrical ==

[[Alternator]]

[[Dash Cluster]]

[[Distributor]]

[[Headlights]]

[[Relays]]

[[Starter Motor]]

[[Spark Plug Types]]

[[Tachometer]]

[[Thermo Fan]]

[[Wiring Diagrams]]

== Emission Systems ==

[[Emission System Abbreviations|Emission System Abbreviations]]

[[Emission System Components|Emission System Components]]

== Reference Material ==

[[Corolla Model Numbers]]

[[Homologations]] - Listing of FIA Homologated Corollas for Group 1-4 and Group A

[[Books]]

Codes - Engine, Body, Axle

Service

Torque Specs

* [[Reference:What Carb| What Carb is that ?]]

* [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/AE86Manual.pdf.gz AE86 Manual]

* [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/KE70_Chassis_Electrical_System.pdf KE70 Chassis Electrical System]

* [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/Starlet_Manual_Supplement_&_Revisions.pdf KP61 Starlet Manual includes 4KE EFI]

* [http://home.onthenet.com.au/~paulp/Blacktop/ Blacktop 4AGE Manual]

= Maintenance =

== Body ==
* [[Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust| Fixing Rust]]

== Engine ==
* [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising| Decarbonising an engine]]

= Upgrades =
[[Upgrades:Ke55 boot release|Ke55 Boot Release]]

[[Upgrades:Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71| Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71]]

[[Upgrades:KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch|KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch]]

[[Upgrades:KE70 K50 gearbox into 3K powered KE20| KE70 K50 into 3K powered KE20]]

[[Upgrades:KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring|KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring]]

[[Upgrades:Nikki Carb onto K motor|Nikki carb onto K motor]]

== Engineering your Car ==

===[[Overview]]===

[[South Australia]]

[[Victoria]]

= History =
[[History:60s |The '60s]]

[[History:70s |The '70s]]

[[History:80s |The '80s]]

[[History:90s |The '90s]]

[[History:Racing | Racing]]

RWD corolla history
http://reocities.com/COLOSSEUM/4883/crwd.html

= Related =
[[Car Movies]]

----
the bit where jamie can edit the main page is cool :D

Installing a KE17 Tacho Dash into KE11/16/18

2010-01-19T00:28:08Z

Philbey:

KE11/16/18 dash clusters can be swapped out for a KE17 SL sprinter dash which has a factory Tacho. Mechanically, this is a fairly simple task, but you will need to modify the wiring slightly to get it to work.

Basically, there is a single plug that connects to the back of the dash which has 12 pin contacts in it. The difference between the two versions of the dash is that some pins have been altered.

This chart on the right details the pin layout for the two dash clusters. The chart on the left shows which pin contact needs to move to which point on the plug.

[[Image:Dashpinske11to17.jpg]]

The next question is; how have I numbered the sockets? If I recall correctly, if you are looking at the back of the dash cluster, you'll see the circle of Pins. There is a break in the circle of pins. The pins are numbered 1-12 in a clockwise direction, starting at that break in the circle.

In order to change the pins over, it is very simple and doesn't require cutting/soldering.

Take a look at the front of the plug, you will see the pin holes. In the hole you will see the little contact, and if you look closer into the hole you will notice a small lug on that holds the contact into the plug

If you get a very small watchmakers scredriver, you can poke it in and depress the lug enough to gently slide the contact out. Take your time and care it's a pain if you break one of these.

If you DO break one, KE20's use the same plugs, and probably later models. I went and cut a couple of these plugs, with 1-2 inches of wire, out of cars at the wrecker so I've got spares that I can solder in if I need to.

Discussion in this thread: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=37491

----

''Article by philbey''

----

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Electrical Electrical]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Installing a KE17 Tacho Dash into KE11/16/18

2010-01-19T00:25:37Z

Philbey:

File:Dashpinske11to17.jpg

2010-01-19T00:24:58Z

Philbey:

File:Dashpins.jpg

2010-01-19T00:20:50Z

Philbey:

Dash Cluster

2010-01-19T00:04:32Z

Philbey:

[[KE70 Dash Cluster (AUS)]]

[[Installing a KE17 Tacho Dash into KE11/16/18]]

----

''Article by Medicine_Man''

----

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Electrical Electrical]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Removing Spigot Bearings

2009-09-12T09:34:59Z

Philbey:

--[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 23:15, 21 May 2008 (EST)

This is a top tip on how to remove a tough to remove spigot bearing.

1. Pack a bunch of grease through the centre hole of the bearing

2. Get a bolt or piece of rod, or if you have an old input shaft end that you use as a clutch alignment tool and insert it into the centre of the bearing

3. Tap the shaft with a hammer a few times. If it doesnt start to move, pack a more grease in (has to be jammed full)

4. Tap some more until the bearing pops out.

Unlike a gas (air) grease is incompressible, as you put force on it it will try force its way out. If the bearing is the path of least resistance, then she'll just pop out.

From this original discussion thread.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=33912

Talk:Removing Spigot Bearings

2009-09-12T09:34:21Z

Philbey:

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=33912

Removing Spigot Bearings

2009-09-12T09:33:52Z

Philbey:

--[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 23:15, 21 May 2008 (EST)

This is a top tip on how to remove a tough to remove spigot bearing.

- Pack a bunch of grease through the centre hole of the bearing

- get a bolt or piece of rod, or if you have an old input shaft end that you use as a clutch alignment tool and insert it into the centre of the bearing

- Tap the shaft with a hammer a few times. If it doesnt start to move, pack a more grease in (has to be jammed full)

- Tap some more until the bearing pops out.

Unlike a gas (air) grease is incompressible, as you put force on it it will try force its way out. If the bearing is the path of least resistance, then she'll just pop out.

From this original discussion thread.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=33912

Main Page Old

2009-09-12T09:27:39Z

Philbey: /* Drivetrain */

'''Welcome to the Rollaclub FAQ'''

This FAQ Has been migrated to WIKI format from the Oldcorollas FAQ, maintained by Super Jamie.

Further Discussion of any articles here may be made on the:
[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oldcorollas/ Old Corollas Yahoo Group]
and
[http://www.rollaclub.com/board/ Rollaclub Messageboard]

= Tech =

== Engine ==

=== K Series ===

==== General Information ====

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Alternator|Alternator]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft|Camshaft]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Carburettor|Carburettor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Heads|Cylinder Heads]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distributor|Distributor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/EFI|Electronic Fuel Injection]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Emissions System|Emissions System]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Exhaust|Exhaust]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Flywheel|Flywheel]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Filter|Fuel Filter]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Pump|Fuel Pump]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor|How To Build A Tough 'K' Motor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/How To Fix K Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)|How To Fix 'K' Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/K|KE1x Series 'K' Engine Specific Info]]

[[Tech:Engine/Mounts|Mounts]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distrib|Nippon Denso Distributor Part Numbers]]

[[Oil Pump]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Starter Motor|Starter Motor]]

[[Sump]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Torque_Settings|Torque Settings]]

[[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD Uprite Kit|TRD Upright Kit]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4kstall|What Is A Fuel Solenoid?]]

==== K (1077cc) ====

==== 2K (993cc) ====

==== 3K (1166cc) ====

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Bigport Head|Bigport Head]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Factory Twin Carbs|Factory Twin Carbs]]

==== 4K (1290cc) ====

'''------------4K-C'''

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-C/4K-C Emission System Diagram|4K-C Emission System Diagram]]

'''------------4K-E'''

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Injectors|Injectors]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Rocker Cover|Rocker Cover]]

==== 5K (1496cc) ====

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion|5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion]]

==== 7K (1812cc) ====

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes|Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes]]

=== A Series ===

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/A-Series Engine FAQ|A-Series Engine FAQ]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Alternator Wiring Diagram|Alternator Wiring Diagram]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Cooling Guide|Cooling Guide]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Crossmembers|Crossmembers]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/ECU Pinouts|ECU Pinouts]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Electronic 4AC dizzy|Electronic 4AC dizzy]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/External Thermostat|External Thermostat]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Heads|Heads]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Injectors|Injectors]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank|Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Internals|Internals]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rear Water Outlet|Rear Water Outlet]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rebuilding Your 4ag(z)e|Rebuilding Your 4AG(Z)E]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Replacing Your Timing Belt|Replacing Your Timing Belt]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Toyota Part Numbers|Toyota Part Numbers]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/TVIS|What Is TVIS?]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Wiring Diagrams|Wiring Diagrams]]

[[Removing the Air Bypass Valve on a 4agze]]

=== S Series ===

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/Head|Head]]

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/EFI|EFI]]

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]

=== T Series ===

[[Tech:Engine/T Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/T Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]

=== E Series ===
[[Tech:Engine/E Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

== [[:Category:Fuel System | Fuel System]] ==

[[EFI]]

[[Fuel]]

[[How To Set Up Your Fuel System]]

== [[:Category: Drivetrain | Drivetrain]] ==

(In logical order of drivetrain after the flywheel)

[[Tech:Drivetrain/Bellhousing|Bellhousing]]

[[Clutch]]

[[Automatic Gearbox]]

[[Manual Gearbox]]

* [[Removing Spigot Bearings]]

[[Tailshaft]]

[[Differential Gears]]

[[Differential Housing]]

[[Axles]]

--[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 12:46, 18 Jul 2005 (EST)

== Suspension ==

[[Rear Leaf Springs]]

[[Stud Pattern]]

[[KE55 Front Strut Upgrades]]

=== KE1x Suspension ===

[[Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x]]

[[Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts]]

== Brakes ==

[[Front Disc Brakes]]

[[Rear Disc Brakes]]

== Electrical ==

[[Alternator]]

[[Dash Cluster]]

[[Distributor]]

[[Headlights]]

[[Relays]]

[[Starter Motor]]

[[Spark Plug Types]]

[[Tachometer]]

[[Thermo Fan]]

[[Wiring Diagrams]]

== Emission Systems ==

[[Emission System Abbreviations|Emission System Abbreviations]]

[[Emission System Components|Emission System Components]]

== Reference Material ==

[[Corolla Model Numbers]]

[[Homologations]] - Listing of FIA Homologated Corollas for Group 1-4 and Group A

[[Books]]

Codes - Engine, Body, Axle

Service

Torque Specs

* [[Reference:What Carb| What Carb is that ?]]

* [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/AE86Manual.pdf.gz AE86 Manual]

* [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/KE70_Chassis_Electrical_System.pdf KE70 Chassis Electrical System]

* [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/Starlet_Manual_Supplement_&_Revisions.zip KP61 Starlet Manual includes 4KE EFI]

* [http://home.onthenet.com.au/~paulp/Blacktop/ Blacktop 4AGE Manual]

= Maintenance =

== Body ==
* [[Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust| Fixing Rust]]

== Engine ==
* [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising| Decarbonising an engine]]

== Suspension ==
* [[Maintenance:Suspension/Control Arm Bushes| Control Arm Bushes]]

= Upgrades =
[[Upgrades:Ke55 boot release|Ke55 Boot Release]]

[[Upgrades:Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71| Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71]]

[[Upgrades:Hilux Diff Conversion| Hilux Diff Conversion Into KE55]]

[[Upgrades:KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch|KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch]]

[[Upgrades:KE70 K50 gearbox into 3K powered KE20| KE70 K50 into 3K powered KE20]]

[[Upgrades:KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring|KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring]]

[[Upgrades:Nikki Carb onto K motor|Nikki carb onto K motor]]

[[Upgrades:Sigma Control Arms| Sigma Control Arms]]

== Engineering your Car ==

===[[Overview]]===

[[South Australia]]

[[Victoria]]

= History =
[[History:60s |The '60s]]

[[History:70s |The '70s]]

[[History:80s |The '80s]]

[[History:90s |The '90s]]

[[History:Racing | Racing]]

= Related =
[[Car Movies]]

----
the bit where jamie can edit the main page is cool :D

Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks

2009-03-16T00:03:39Z

Philbey: /* Description */

== Description ==

All K Motors are watercooled inline 30-degree slant 4-cylinders, have overhead valves with pushrods, and are driven by a single or double row timing chain. Ranging from 1.0 to 1.8L made from 1966 to present, they appear in Corolla RWD (KE series), Publica and Starlet RWD (KP series), and various Toyota Vans. Currently still in production in the TownAce SBV (7K) and Toyota Industrial forklifts (4K).

Models up to 4K have points-style distributors, some 4K, and all later motors have an electronic distributor, of which there is an external ignitor dizzy on 4Ks and internal ignitor model on 5/7K. There is one common manifold stud design across all Ks, however sumps can vary depending on vehicle application

4K onwards have a 10mm higher deck height than 3K and earlier. All Ks have an aluminium alloy head, the 1K, 3K and 4K combustion center is in the head, while 5K and 7K perform combustion in the cylnder bore (called a heron-type combustion chamber). 1K-5K heads are interchangeable (disregarding the resulting compression), however 7K head bolt pattern is different to all the others, in that it has 3 more bolt positions neaar the pushrods

Dished piston 4Ks did exist, in the 4K-U and 4K-E variants, each having different piston dish capacity. Most 5Ks are dished, but there are some 5k's with flat top pistons, these engines also can have solid lifters,however aftermarket flat-top pistons do exist.

The diaphragm-type fuel pump is mounted on the side of the block and actuated by a lobe on the camshaft. The injected 4K-E has a different rocker cover than the others due to intake plenum design. Oil filter is Toyota Genuine Parts 15601-33021 (Ryco Z68). The small oil filter from 4A engine (part no?) also fits, as does a large Ford Z9 filter.

K-5K blocks have the same bellhousing studs and engine mount points, so you can drop a 5K in place of your 1K without a problem. 7K Blocks are wider than the others, and while the gearbox pattern is the same, there can be issues with Engine mounts. 3K stock mounts have been used with success, but the sump requires modification to clear the crossmember.

Automatic cars have a different engine backing plate than the manuals, but all gearboxes bolt up to all engine blocks.

The Gregories says this more eloquently than I can:

The five bearing crankshaft and flywheel are dynamically balanced and crankshaft end play is controlled at the centre main journal by thrust washers which are separate from the main bearings. The main big end bearings are replaceable steel backed shells. The cam ground alloy pistons are equipped with two compression rings and one oil control ring. The fully floating gudgeon pin is offset towards the camshaft side of the engine and is secured by circlips at both ends. Connecting rods are H section forged steel. The camshaft is chain driven and supported in four precision type bearings. The aluminium alloy cylinder head is designed with wedge shaped combustion chambers to allow efficient heat distribution. These wedge type chambers, together with independant inlet and outlet ports, provide smooth performance during all operating conditions. The lubrication system is a forced feed, full flow filtering type. The trochoid gear type oil pump is driven through the distributor shaft from the camshaft. The oil filter is a spin-on throw away type.

'''Note''': The Build a Tough K Motor article mentions the better quality pistons, but as per rob83ke70's experience, they can't be swapped to a 4k as they will foul with the crank. [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s=&showtopic=27842&view=findpost&p=321083 Link to Thread.]''--[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 12:32, 22 February 2009 (EST)''

=== Specifications ===

<table border="1" width="100%">
<tr>
<td width="11%">Engine</td>
<td width="11%">Year</td>
<td width="11%">Displacement</td>

<td width="11%">BHP</td>
<td width="11%">Torque (lb-ft)</td>
<td width="11%">Bore (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">Stroke (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">CR</td>

<td width="11%">Notes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">K</td>
<td width="11%">66-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%">62.7@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">K-B</td>
<td width="11%">68-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">73@6600</td>
<td width="11%">66.3@4400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">2K</td>
<td width="11%">69-88</td>

<td width="11%">993</td>
<td width="11%">45@5600</td>
<td width="11%">49@4000</td>
<td width="11%">72</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">73@6000</td>

<td width="11%">74.2@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-B</td>
<td width="11%">69-75</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">83@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-D</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>

<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">79@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4200</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>

<td width="11%">dual carb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-H</td>
<td width="11%">74-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-C</td>
<td width="11%">77-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">8.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">78-89+</td>

<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">80-81</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-U</td>

<td width="11%">82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">74@5600</td>
<td width="11%">78@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Japanese emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>

<td width="11%">65@5600</td>
<td width="11%">72@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9.4:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-C</td>
<td width="11%">81-82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@5200</td>
<td width="11%">67@3600</td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-E</td>

<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@4200</td>
<td width="11%">74@3400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Fuel Injection</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">5K</td>
<td width="11%">83-89</td>
<td width="11%">1496</td>

<td width="11%">70@4800</td>
<td width="11%">85@3200</td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9.3:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">7K</td>
<td width="11%">98</td>
<td width="11%">1781</td>
<td width="11%">76@4600</td>
<td width="11%">103@2800</td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>

<td width="11%">87.5</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
</table>

Please note that these are intended to be FACTORY quoted BHP and torque figures.

----

''Article by Superjamie''

----

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks

2009-02-22T01:33:37Z

Philbey: /* Description */

== Description ==

All K Motors are watercooled inline 30-degree slant 4-cylinders, have overhead valves with pushrods, and are driven by a single or double row timing chain. Ranging from 1.0 to 1.8L made from 1966 to present, they appear in Corolla RWD (KE series), Publica and Starlet RWD (KP series), and various Toyota Vans. Currently still in production in the TownAce SBV (7K) and Toyota Industrial forklifts (4K).

Models up to 4K have points-style distributors, some 4K, and all later motors have an electronic distributor, of which there is an external ignitor dizzy on 4Ks and internal ignitor model on 5/7K. There is one common manifold stud design across all Ks, however sumps can vary depending on vehicle application

4K onwards have a 10mm higher deck height than 3K and earlier. All Ks have an aluminium alloy head, the 1K, 3K and 4K combustion center is in the head, while 5K and 7K perform combustion in the cylnder bore (called a heron-type combustion chamber). 1K-5K heads are interchangeable (disregarding the resulting compression), however 7K head bolt pattern is different to all the others, in that it has 3 more bolt positions neaar the pushrods

Dished piston 4Ks did exist, in the 4K-U and 4K-E variants, each having different piston dish capacity. Most 5Ks are dished, but there are some 5k's with flat top pistons, these engines also can have solid lifters,however aftermarket flat-top pistons do exist.

The diaphragm-type fuel pump is mounted on the side of the block and actuated by a lobe on the camshaft. The injected 4K-E has a different rocker cover than the others due to intake plenum design. Oil filter is Toyota Genuine Parts 15601-33021 (Ryco Z68). The small oil filter from 4A engine (part no?) also fits, as does a large Ford Z9 filter.

All K blocks have the same bellhousing studs and engine mount points, so you can drop a 7K in place of your 1K without a problem. Automatic cars have a different engine backing plate than the manuals, but all gearboxes bolt up to all engine blocks.

The Gregories says this more eloquently than I can:

The five bearing crankshaft and flywheel are dynamically balanced and crankshaft end play is controlled at the centre main journal by thrust washers which are separate from the main bearings. The main big end bearings are replaceable steel backed shells. The cam ground alloy pistons are equipped with two compression rings and one oil control ring. The fully floating gudgeon pin is offset towards the camshaft side of the engine and is secured by circlips at both ends. Connecting rods are H section forged steel. The camshaft is chain driven and supported in four precision type bearings. The aluminium alloy cylinder head is designed with wedge shaped combustion chambers to allow efficient heat distribution. These wedge type chambers, together with independant inlet and outlet ports, provide smooth performance during all operating conditions. The lubrication system is a forced feed, full flow filtering type. The trochoid gear type oil pump is driven through the distributor shaft from the camshaft. The oil filter is a spin-on throw away type.

'''Note''': The Build a Tough K Motor article mentions the better quality pistons, but as per rob83ke70's experience, they can't be swapped to a 4k as they will foul with the crank. [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s=&showtopic=27842&view=findpost&p=321083 Link to Thread.]''--[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 12:32, 22 February 2009 (EST)''

=== Specifications ===

<table border="1" width="100%">
<tr>
<td width="11%">Engine</td>
<td width="11%">Year</td>
<td width="11%">Displacement</td>

<td width="11%">BHP</td>
<td width="11%">Torque (lb-ft)</td>
<td width="11%">Bore (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">Stroke (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">CR</td>

<td width="11%">Notes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">K</td>
<td width="11%">66-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%">62.7@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">K-B</td>
<td width="11%">68-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">73@6600</td>
<td width="11%">66.3@4400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">2K</td>
<td width="11%">69-88</td>

<td width="11%">993</td>
<td width="11%">45@5600</td>
<td width="11%">49@4000</td>
<td width="11%">72</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">73@6000</td>

<td width="11%">74.2@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-B</td>
<td width="11%">69-75</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">83@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-D</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>

<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">79@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4200</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>

<td width="11%">dual carb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-H</td>
<td width="11%">74-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-C</td>
<td width="11%">77-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">8.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">78-89+</td>

<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">80-81</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-U</td>

<td width="11%">82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">74@5600</td>
<td width="11%">78@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Japanese emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>

<td width="11%">65@5600</td>
<td width="11%">72@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9.4:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-C</td>
<td width="11%">81-82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@5200</td>
<td width="11%">67@3600</td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-E</td>

<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@4200</td>
<td width="11%">74@3400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Fuel Injection</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">5K</td>
<td width="11%">83-89</td>
<td width="11%">1496</td>

<td width="11%">70@4800</td>
<td width="11%">85@3200</td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9.3:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">7K</td>
<td width="11%">98</td>
<td width="11%">1781</td>
<td width="11%">76@4600</td>
<td width="11%">103@2800</td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>

<td width="11%">87.5</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
</table>

Please note that these are intended to be FACTORY quoted BHP and torque figures.

----

''Article by Superjamie''

----

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks

2009-02-22T01:32:50Z

Philbey:

== Description ==

All K Motors are watercooled inline 30-degree slant 4-cylinders, have overhead valves with pushrods, and are driven by a single or double row timing chain. Ranging from 1.0 to 1.8L made from 1966 to present, they appear in Corolla RWD (KE series), Publica and Starlet RWD (KP series), and various Toyota Vans. Currently still in production in the TownAce SBV (7K) and Toyota Industrial forklifts (4K).

Models up to 4K have points-style distributors, some 4K, and all later motors have an electronic distributor, of which there is an external ignitor dizzy on 4Ks and internal ignitor model on 5/7K. There is one common manifold stud design across all Ks, however sumps can vary depending on vehicle application

4K onwards have a 10mm higher deck height than 3K and earlier. All Ks have an aluminium alloy head, the 1K, 3K and 4K combustion center is in the head, while 5K and 7K perform combustion in the cylnder bore (called a heron-type combustion chamber). 1K-5K heads are interchangeable (disregarding the resulting compression), however 7K head bolt pattern is different to all the others, in that it has 3 more bolt positions neaar the pushrods

Dished piston 4Ks did exist, in the 4K-U and 4K-E variants, each having different piston dish capacity. Most 5Ks are dished, but there are some 5k's with flat top pistons, these engines also can have solid lifters,however aftermarket flat-top pistons do exist.

The diaphragm-type fuel pump is mounted on the side of the block and actuated by a lobe on the camshaft. The injected 4K-E has a different rocker cover than the others due to intake plenum design. Oil filter is Toyota Genuine Parts 15601-33021 (Ryco Z68). The small oil filter from 4A engine (part no?) also fits, as does a large Ford Z9 filter.

All K blocks have the same bellhousing studs and engine mount points, so you can drop a 7K in place of your 1K without a problem. Automatic cars have a different engine backing plate than the manuals, but all gearboxes bolt up to all engine blocks.

The Gregories says this more eloquently than I can:

The five bearing crankshaft and flywheel are dynamically balanced and crankshaft end play is controlled at the centre main journal by thrust washers which are separate from the main bearings. The main big end bearings are replaceable steel backed shells. The cam ground alloy pistons are equipped with two compression rings and one oil control ring. The fully floating gudgeon pin is offset towards the camshaft side of the engine and is secured by circlips at both ends. Connecting rods are H section forged steel. The camshaft is chain driven and supported in four precision type bearings. The aluminium alloy cylinder head is designed with wedge shaped combustion chambers to allow efficient heat distribution. These wedge type chambers, together with independant inlet and outlet ports, provide smooth performance during all operating conditions. The lubrication system is a forced feed, full flow filtering type. The trochoid gear type oil pump is driven through the distributor shaft from the camshaft. The oil filter is a spin-on throw away type.

'''Note''': The Build a Tough K Motor thread talks about the bettr quality pistons, but as per rob83ke70's experience, they can't be swapped to a 4k as they will foul with the crank. [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s=&showtopic=27842&view=findpost&p=321083 Link to Thread.]''--[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 12:32, 22 February 2009 (EST)''

=== Specifications ===

<table border="1" width="100%">
<tr>
<td width="11%">Engine</td>
<td width="11%">Year</td>
<td width="11%">Displacement</td>

<td width="11%">BHP</td>
<td width="11%">Torque (lb-ft)</td>
<td width="11%">Bore (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">Stroke (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">CR</td>

<td width="11%">Notes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">K</td>
<td width="11%">66-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%">62.7@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">K-B</td>
<td width="11%">68-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">73@6600</td>
<td width="11%">66.3@4400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">2K</td>
<td width="11%">69-88</td>

<td width="11%">993</td>
<td width="11%">45@5600</td>
<td width="11%">49@4000</td>
<td width="11%">72</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">73@6000</td>

<td width="11%">74.2@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-B</td>
<td width="11%">69-75</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">83@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-D</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>

<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">79@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4200</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>

<td width="11%">dual carb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-H</td>
<td width="11%">74-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-C</td>
<td width="11%">77-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">8.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">78-89+</td>

<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">80-81</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-U</td>

<td width="11%">82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">74@5600</td>
<td width="11%">78@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Japanese emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>

<td width="11%">65@5600</td>
<td width="11%">72@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9.4:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-C</td>
<td width="11%">81-82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@5200</td>
<td width="11%">67@3600</td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-E</td>

<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@4200</td>
<td width="11%">74@3400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Fuel Injection</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">5K</td>
<td width="11%">83-89</td>
<td width="11%">1496</td>

<td width="11%">70@4800</td>
<td width="11%">85@3200</td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9.3:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">7K</td>
<td width="11%">98</td>
<td width="11%">1781</td>
<td width="11%">76@4600</td>
<td width="11%">103@2800</td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>

<td width="11%">87.5</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
</table>

Please note that these are intended to be FACTORY quoted BHP and torque figures.

----

''Article by Superjamie''

----

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

South Australia

2008-05-26T11:02:02Z

Philbey:

Disclaimer - I wrote this based on research I did after seeing many confused posts in the forum. Certain things may have changed since then, but I will endeavour to keep this article accurate. This remains a guide, although I will try keep it updated. --[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 20:45, 26 May 2008 (EST)

'''Who to talk to'''

- Department of Transport Energy and Infrastructure
http://www.dtei.sa.gov.au/index.html

- DTEI Recognised Chartered Engineers
http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/personal_transport/light_vehicles_pdfs/chartered_engineers.pdf

'''Reading'''

- DTEI Vehicle Modifications Guide. Good read.
http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/personal_transport/light_vehicles_pdfs/Info_bulletin_3.pdf

'''Summary'''

SA isn't too black and white when it comes to engineering cars, but in some cases you might get lucky.

First up, call the DTEI and ask them about your particular conversion (Call the vehicle inspectors at regency, there is a number in one of the links). They have a list of approved engine modifications where vehicles "where no major mechanical changes are required". Assume that these a confined within car brands and are all bolt in conversions like a 3k-5k. If they say the change is ok, its just a case of changing the engine number.

Second, if you don't have an approved engine change, you need to lodge an application to modify the car. This will include all the upgrades being made to handle the extra power etc. From here, they will issue you with a Statement of Requirements, a list of items you must comply with in order to get the car registered. Keep in mind that '''one requirement may be that you need to supply an engineering certificate.''' More on that later.

Third step, you will need to have an inspection, where the inspectors will go over the car to see that everything complys to the list, etc.

In the case that you need to supply an engineering certificate, you will need to find a Chartered Professional Engineer with relevant experience to investigate the necessary items on the car. This will most likely include any custom fab parts and cut and shut items like modified crossmembers, steering etc. It is likely they will produce a report of some kind that will need to be supplied to the DTEI Inspectors so they are happy that any serious mods will handle the new power

'''Experiences'''

I spoke to the guys at Vehicle Standards inquiring aboutr basic Corolla upgrades. A 5K conversion into a '75 KE30 is as simple as changing the engine number. On the other hand a 5K into a Disc Brake KE1x will require a statement of requirements but no engineering report.

The guys there were very helpful and it would seem like they know their stuff about cars, so its definitely calling them early on in the piece.

'''Discussion'''

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=17449&st=0

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=18290&hl=engineering

Thanks to turbo_rolla's post about the SOR, and to anyone else I have gleaned information from.

South Australia

2008-05-26T11:00:41Z

Philbey:

Disclaimer - I wrote this based on research I did after seeing many confused posts in the forum. Certain things may have changed since then, but I will endeavour to keep this article accurate. This remains a guide, although I will try keep it updated. --[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 20:45, 26 May 2008 (EST)

'''Who to talk to'''

- Department of Transport Energy and Infrastructure
http://www.dtei.sa.gov.au/index.html

- DTEI Recognised Chartered Engineers
http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/personal_transport/light_vehicles_pdfs/chartered_engineers.pdf

'''Reading'''

- DTEI Vehicle Modifications Guide. Good read.
http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/personal_transport/light_vehicles_pdfs/Info_bulletin_3.pdf

'''Summary'''

SA isn't too black and white when it comes to engineering cars, but in some cases you might get lucky.

First up, call the DTEI and ask them about your particular conversion (Call the vehicle inspectors at regency, there is a number in one of the links). They have a list of approved engine modifications where vehicles "where no major mechanical changes are required". Assume that these a confined within car brands and are all bolt in conversions like a 3k-5k. If they say the change is ok, its just a case of changing the engine number.

Second, if you don't have an approved engine change, you need to lodge an application to modify the car. This will include all the upgrades being made to handle the extra power etc. From here, they will issue you with a Statement of Requirements, a list of items you must comply with in order to get the car registered. Keep in mind that '''one requirement may be that you need to supply an engineering certificate.''' More on that later.

Third step, you will need to have an inspection, where the inspectors will go over the car to see that everything complys to the list, etc.

In the case that you need to supply an engineering certificate, you will need to find a Chartered Professional Engineer with relevant experience to investigate the necessary items on the car. This will most likely include any custom fab parts and cut and shut items like modified crossmembers, steering etc. It is likely they will produce a report of some kind that will need to be supplied to the DTEI Inspectors so they are happy that any serious mods will handle the new power

'''Experiences'''
I spoke to the guys at Vehicle Standards inquiring aboutr basic Corolla upgrades. A 5K conversion into a '75 KE30 is as simple as changing the engine number. On the other hand a 5K into a Disc Brake KE1x will require a statement of requirements but no engineering report.

The guys there were very helpful and it would seem like they know their stuff about cars, so its definitely calling them early on in the piece.

'''Discussion'''

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=17449&st=0

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=18290&hl=engineering

South Australia

2008-05-26T10:45:00Z

Philbey:

Victoria

2008-05-26T10:21:35Z

Philbey:

Disclaimer - I wrote this based on research I did into the topic and the experience I gained engineering my car in Victoria. Certain things may have changed since then, but I will endeavour to keep this article accurate. This remains a guide, although I will try keep it update. --[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 20:10, 26 May 2008 (EST)

'''Who to talk to:'''

- Vicroads

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au

-VASS Approved Engineers (Link to list from this page)

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/RoadSafety/VehicleSafety/ApprovalCertificatesVASS.htm

'''Reading'''

Take a look at the Modification Guide on Vicroads. Most questions should be answered in here:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/CC48FC10-4D57-4F04-82E1-3BD72EF88340/0/VSI8.pdf

Also, for some of the more esoteric questions, from bonnet scoops to baby seats, this list of bulletins should have you covered:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/RulesStandardsRegulations/VehicleStandardsInformation/

'''Summary'''

Cut to the chase, if your engine upgrade isn't a factory option for that car, it needs engineering. Although I'm not certain, I believe a 5k needs engineering into a corolla, given that it was never an option. 4k's into early models dont seem to be a problem.

So, you more than likely need to have it engineered. In order to do this, you need to see a VASS engineer from the link above. There's a few around so you should be able to find one nearby.

'''Experiences

When I engineered my car, (CA18 Turbo Bluebird) the engineering process was fairly straightforward. I left the car with him for a few hours and he did a comprehensive look over the car and gave me a list of items that needed fixing or upgrading on the car. It was a bolt in upgrade so no in depth investigations had to be made on cut and shut items or custom fabbed parts.

I then went and fixed/upgraded all these items and brought it back. There were a few things I did wrong and a bit of back and forth, and the car was engineered.

Main items were to do with roadworthiness. Bushes, brake cylinder leaks, frayed seatbelts. Exhaust had to meet the noise requirement (92dBa) and the brakes had to be tested.

The brake test consisted of 8 stops from 60kmh and 2 stops from 100kmh. I had a bolt in brake upgrade so these were passed with no issues. They use and accelerometer to measure deceleration and a pressure sensor on the pedal. The values have to be fairly close across all 10 braking stops for it to pass, but I am unsure if they require a certain Gforce.

The engineering cost ~$600 not including the work I had to do to fix it. Once again, I was fortunate that it was a straightforward bolt in item. The engineer also mentioned I was lucky it wasn't a slightly older car because it would have had to conform with much stricter emissions laws.

Once again, I need to highlight the fact that the car had to be roadworthy, and most of my time was spent fixing niggly little roadworthy items. The engineer gave me a roadworthy certificate as well as the engineering certificate so that I could register it. Vicroads keeps a copy of the Eng Cert, the Engineer keeps a copy and I got a copy. You have 30 days to register once you get the certificate.

Once again, this is my experience with the system. Custom mods will require the engineer to inspect welds and custom fab parts to make sure they conform to the required standards.

Victoria

2008-05-26T10:21:23Z

Philbey:

Disclaimer - I wrote this based on research I did into the topic and the experience I gained engineering my car in Victoria. Certain things may have changed since then, but I will endeavour to keep this article accurate. This remains a guide, although I will try keep it update. --[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 20:10, 26 May 2008 (EST)

'''Who to talk to:'''

- Vicroads

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au

-VASS Approved Engineers (Link to list from this page)

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/RoadSafety/VehicleSafety/ApprovalCertificatesVASS.htm

'''Reading'''

Take a look at the Modification Guide on Vicroads. Most questions should be answered in here:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/CC48FC10-4D57-4F04-82E1-3BD72EF88340/0/VSI8.pdf

Also, for some of the more esoteric questions, from bonnet scoops to baby seats, this list of bulletins should have you covered:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/RulesStandardsRegulations/VehicleStandardsInformation/

'''Summary'''

Cut to the chase, if your engine upgrade isn't a factory option for that car, it needs engineering. Although I'm not certain, I believe a 5k needs engineering into a corolla, given that it was never an option. 4k's into early models dont seem to be a problem.

So, you more than likely need to have it engineered. In order to do this, you need to see a VASS engineer from the link above. There's a few around so you should be able to find one nearby.

'''Experiences
When I engineered my car, (CA18 Turbo Bluebird) the engineering process was fairly straightforward. I left the car with him for a few hours and he did a comprehensive look over the car and gave me a list of items that needed fixing or upgrading on the car. It was a bolt in upgrade so no in depth investigations had to be made on cut and shut items or custom fabbed parts.

I then went and fixed/upgraded all these items and brought it back. There were a few things I did wrong and a bit of back and forth, and the car was engineered.

Main items were to do with roadworthiness. Bushes, brake cylinder leaks, frayed seatbelts. Exhaust had to meet the noise requirement (92dBa) and the brakes had to be tested.

The brake test consisted of 8 stops from 60kmh and 2 stops from 100kmh. I had a bolt in brake upgrade so these were passed with no issues. They use and accelerometer to measure deceleration and a pressure sensor on the pedal. The values have to be fairly close across all 10 braking stops for it to pass, but I am unsure if they require a certain Gforce.

The engineering cost ~$600 not including the work I had to do to fix it. Once again, I was fortunate that it was a straightforward bolt in item. The engineer also mentioned I was lucky it wasn't a slightly older car because it would have had to conform with much stricter emissions laws.

Once again, I need to highlight the fact that the car had to be roadworthy, and most of my time was spent fixing niggly little roadworthy items. The engineer gave me a roadworthy certificate as well as the engineering certificate so that I could register it. Vicroads keeps a copy of the Eng Cert, the Engineer keeps a copy and I got a copy. You have 30 days to register once you get the certificate.

Once again, this is my experience with the system. Custom mods will require the engineer to inspect welds and custom fab parts to make sure they conform to the required standards.

Victoria

2008-05-26T10:11:37Z

Philbey:

Disclaimer - I wrote this based on research I did into the topic and the experience I gained engineering my car in Victoria. Certain things may have changed since then, but I will endeavour to keep this article accurate. This remains a guide, although I will try keep it update. --[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 20:10, 26 May 2008 (EST)

'''Who to talk to:'''

- Vicroads

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au

-VASS Approved Engineers (Link to list from this page)

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/RoadSafety/VehicleSafety/ApprovalCertificatesVASS.htm

'''Reading'''

Take a look at the Modification Guide on Vicroads. Most questions should be answered in here:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/CC48FC10-4D57-4F04-82E1-3BD72EF88340/0/VSI8.pdf

Also, for some of the more esoteric questions, from bonnet scoops to baby seats, this list of bulletins should have you covered:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/RulesStandardsRegulations/VehicleStandardsInformation/

'''Summary'''

Cut to the chase, if your engine upgrade isn't a factory option for that car, it needs engineering. Although I'm not certain, I believe a 5k needs engineering into a corolla, given that it was never an option. 4k's into early models dont seem to be a problem.

So, you more than likely need to have it engineered. In order to do this, you need to see a VASS engineer from the link above. There's a few around so you should be able to find one nearby.

When I engineered my car, (CA18 Turbo Bluebird) the engineering process was fairly straightforward. I left the car with him for a few hours and he did a comprehensive look over the car and gave me a list of items that needed fixing or upgrading on the car. It was a bolt in upgrade so no in depth investigations had to be made on cut and shut items or custom fabbed parts.

I then went and fixed/upgraded all these items and brought it back. There were a few things I did wrong and a bit of back and forth, and the car was engineered.

Main items were to do with roadworthiness. Bushes, brake cylinder leaks, frayed seatbelts. Exhaust had to meet the noise requirement (92dBa) and the brakes had to be tested.

The brake test consisted of 8 stops from 60kmh and 2 stops from 100kmh. I had a bolt in brake upgrade so these were passed with no issues. They use and accelerometer to measure deceleration and a pressure sensor on the pedal. The values have to be fairly close across all 10 braking stops for it to pass, but I am unsure if they require a certain Gforce.

The engineering cost ~$600 not including the work I had to do to fix it. Once again, I was fortunate that it was a straightforward bolt in item. The engineer also mentioned I was lucky it wasn't a slightly older car because it would have had to conform with much stricter emissions laws.

Once again, I need to highlight the fact that the car had to be roadworthy, and most of my time was spent fixing niggly little roadworthy items. The engineer gave me a roadworthy certificate as well as the engineering certificate so that I could register it. Vicroads keeps a copy of the Eng Cert, the Engineer keeps a copy and I got a copy. You have 30 days to register once you get the certificate.

Once again, this is my experience with the system. Custom mods will require the engineer to inspect welds and custom fab parts to make sure they conform to the required standards.

Victoria

2008-05-26T10:10:56Z

Philbey:

Disclaimer - I wrote this based on research I did into the topic and the experience I gained engineering my car in Victoria. Certain things may have changed since then, but I will endeavour to keep this article accurate. This remains a guide, although I will try keep it update. --[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 20:10, 26 May 2008 (EST)

'''Who to talk to:'''

- Vicroads

www.vicroads.vic.gov.au

-VASS Approved Engineers (Link to list from this page)

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/RoadSafety/VehicleSafety/ApprovalCertificatesVASS.htm

'''Reading'''

Take a look at the Modification Guide on Vicroads. Most questions should be answered in here:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/CC48FC10-4D57-4F04-82E1-3BD72EF88340/0/VSI8.pdf

Also, for some of the more esoteric questions, from bonnet scoops to baby seats, this list of bulletins should have you covered:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/RulesStandardsRegulations/VehicleStandardsInformation/

'''Summary'''

Cut to the chase, if your engine upgrade isn't a factory option for that car, it needs engineering. Although I'm not certain, I believe a 5k needs engineering into a corolla, given that it was never an option. 4k's into early models dont seem to be a problem.

So, you more than likely need to have it engineered. In order to do this, you need to see a VASS engineer from the link above. There's a few around so you should be able to find one nearby.

When I engineered my car, (CA18 Turbo Bluebird) the engineering process was fairly straightforward. I left the car with him for a few hours and he did a comprehensive look over the car and gave me a list of items that needed fixing or upgrading on the car. It was a bolt in upgrade so no in depth investigations had to be made on cut and shut items or custom fabbed parts.

I then went and fixed/upgraded all these items and brought it back. There were a few things I did wrong and a bit of back and forth, and the car was engineered.

Main items were to do with roadworthiness. Bushes, brake cylinder leaks, frayed seatbelts. Exhaust had to meet the noise requirement (92dBa) and the brakes had to be tested.

The brake test consisted of 8 stops from 60kmh and 2 stops from 100kmh. I had a bolt in brake upgrade so these were passed with no issues. They use and accelerometer to measure deceleration and a pressure sensor on the pedal. The values have to be fairly close across all 10 braking stops for it to pass, but I am unsure if they require a certain Gforce.

The engineering cost ~$600 not including the work I had to do to fix it. Once again, I was fortunate that it was a straightforward bolt in item. The engineer also mentioned I was lucky it wasn't a slightly older car because it would have had to conform with much stricter emissions laws.

Once again, I need to highlight the fact that the car had to be roadworthy, and most of my time was spent fixing niggly little roadworthy items. The engineer gave me a roadworthy certificate as well as the engineering certificate so that I could register it. Vicroads keeps a copy of the Eng Cert, the Engineer keeps a copy and I got a copy. You have 30 days to register once you get the certificate.

Once again, this is my experience with the system. Custom mods will require the engineer to inspect welds and custom fab parts to make sure they conform to the required standards.

Overview

2008-05-26T09:36:06Z

Philbey:

It's common to see posts in the forums asking "do I need my 400kw rotary shoehorned into a corolla engineered and will I need to upgrade the leaky 4 wheel drums" or something to that effect.

There are a few things that should be considered before the question is asked.

'''Where are you?'''

Typically, answers to said questions often start off with "well in Adelaide you can do this but you're in Botswana, so I dunno if that counts". In Australia, state laws vary widely, so its almost pointless asking someone across the continent what they have done etc, because it won't count. The first and formost authority is your local transport authority: The DTEI in SA, Vicroads in Vic, the RTA in NSW and so on.

Over time I will try compile more state by state specifics on the FAQ.

'''What conversion?'''

Common sense dictates that the more insane the conversion the harder it will be to do. Upgrading to a 5k might not be a problem at all in some states, whereas Rolls Royce Merlin engines will need considerably more effort. (Oh and by the way its been done into a 55 chev)

'''Avoid Hearsay'''

Yep, thats right. If you ever hear the words "this bloke I know said....". If you walk in to register your car and give them that line, see how likely you are to walk out with a shiny new rego sticker. Once again, the first and foremost point of contact is your local transport authority.

'''Use your head'''

Cars registered for road use should be roadworthy. Thats right, roadworthy. So if you've done a nice engine conversion, great, but if the ball joints are shot, the seatbelts are frayed and its only on odd occasions that your right rear brake light decides to work, then think again. Start with a car that is clean and tidy and would pass a roadworthy inspection THEN start thinking about engine conversions etc. No engineer or registration authority will even think about passing you if you can't even meet the basic requirements

'''It can go, but can it stop'''

This is not necessarily fact, but it is fairly safe to say that if your car goes hard, it's going to need to stop hard. And part of stopping hard comes down to suspension.

'''Are you serious?'''

Ok cool, we all have dreams, but if you sat down and do the numbers on what it costs to build a 300hp street legal tyre shredding monster, you will see that it is a lot of time, money and effort. I'm an engineer by trade and I like money, so keep that in mind if you want to do it.

It will never be a case of drive in drive out an hour later with an engineering cert.

'''What year is it'''

Laws change frequently, and this goes for engineering laws. Coming back to the hearsay problem, it's important to keep in mind that what happened as far as cars go might not be the case anymore. Over the last few years i've heard of all sorts of rules of thumb, such as "percent capacity increases", "percent horsepower increases" and "any engine in the same family" and so on. I don't disbelieve any of these rules of thumb, but it would seem that they are not the case anymore, they have made way for much more comprehensive regulations etc.

So before you embark on the exciting (and it is exciting) journey of engineering a car, just consider these points first. I will try compile an overview of what is the case for individual states based on what I have researched myself. Keep in mind that they may have changed since I dealt with them though, and good luck!

Philbey.

Overview

2008-05-26T09:35:24Z

Philbey:

It's common to see posts in the forums asking "do I need my 400kw rotary shoehorned into a corolla engineered and will I need to upgrade the leaky 4 wheel drums" or something to that effect.

There are a few things that should be considered before the question is asked.

'''Where are you?'''
Typically, answers to said questions often start off with "well in Adelaide you can do this but you're in Botswana, so I dunno if that counts. In Australia, state laws vary widely, so its almost pointless asking someone across the continent what they have done etc, because it won't count. The first and formost authority is your local transport authority: The DTEI in SA, Vicroads in Vic, the RTA in NSW and so on.

Over time I will try compile more state by state specifics on the FAQ.

'''What conversion?'''
Common sense dictates that the more insane the conversion the harder it will be to do. Upgrading to a 5k might not be a problem at all in some states, whereas Rolls Royce Merlin engines will need considerably more effort. (Oh and by the way its been done into a 55 chev)

'''Avoid Hearsay'''
Yep, thats right. If you ever hear the words "this bloke I know said....". If you walk in to register your car and give them that line, see how likely you are to walk out with a shiny new rego sticker. Once again, the first and foremost point of contact is your local transport authority.

'''Use your head'''
Cars registered for road use should be roadworthy. Thats right, roadworthy. So if you've done a nice engine conversion, great, but if the ball joints are shot, the seatbelts are frayed and its only on odd occasions that your right rear brake light decides to work, then think again. Start with a car that is clean and tidy and would pass a roadworthy inspection THEN start thinking about engine conversions etc. No engineer or registration authority will even think about passing you if you can't even meet the basic requirements

'''It can go, but can it stop'''
This is not necessarily fact, but it is fairly safe to say that if your car goes hard, it's going to need to stop hard. And part of stopping hard comes down to suspension.

'''Are you serious?'''
Ok cool, we all have dreams, but if you sat down and do the numbers on what it costs to build a 300hp street legal tyre shredding monster, you will see that it is a lot of time, money and effort. I'm an engineer by trade and I like money, so keep that in mind if you want to do it.

It will never be a case of drive in drive out an hour later with an engineering cert.

'''What year is it'''
Laws change frequently, and this goes for engineering laws. Coming back to the hearsay problem, it's important to keep in mind that what happened as far as cars go might not be the case anymore. Over the last few years i've heard of all sorts of rules of thumb, such as "percent capacity increases", "percent horsepower increases" and "any engine in the same family" and so on. I don't disbelieve any of these rules of thumb, but it would seem that they are not the case anymore, they have made way for much more comprehensive regulations etc.

So before you embark on the exciting (and it is exciting) journey of engineering a car, just consider these points first. I will try compile an overview of what is the case for individual states based on what I have researched myself. Keep in mind that they may have changed since I dealt with them though, and good luck!

Philbey.

Main Page Old

2008-05-26T09:09:02Z

Philbey: /* Engineering your Car */

Main Page Old

2008-05-26T09:07:42Z

Philbey:

Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts

2008-05-21T14:34:27Z

Philbey:

--[[User:Philbey|Philbey]] 23:15, 21 May 2008 (EST)

This article is not all my work, it has been pieced together with info divulged from regular contributors such as camerondownunder, ROL-110 and Felix. I've done an upgrade based on what I pieced together from digging through, but most of the info comes Scotts post: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=7435&hl=lower

'''Background'''

So lets begin with a little explanation of KE1x front ends: They have Macpherson struts, a typical integrated coil spring/shock absorber combination. BUT they also have a leaf spring that runs through the front engine crossmember that connects to the lower wishbones.

Its apparent that the leaf spring takes the bulk of the car's front weight (~50%), and the coil springs a little less (~25% each). This should create a progressive spring rate effect, like those fancy race springs!

Because the front springs are quite short and soft, shorter springs (ie Superlows etc) and cutting out coils leaves your spring perches very close together and will likely clash under hard cornering. But there is a nice solution to get an easy inch out of your suspension.

'''Shopping List'''

All you need to get your hands on are:
- Upper spring perches from a KE20 corolla

- Ring Spacers, 15mm internal diameter, 21mm external diameter, 8mm tall

Thats it. I got the spring perches with KE20 Springs and strut tops for less than 20 bucks at a wrecker. The ring spacers I got made by a mate, he knocked them up in less than 20 minutes on a lathe. There are other items you can use, I will explain later.

Here is a diagram of a KE1x strut (most of it) to assist those who aren't too familiar:

'''1.''' Strut top, the 3 studs are what poke through your strut tower, accessed from under the bonnet

'''2.''' Upper Spring perch "top hat". This is a KE1x strut, which have 2 piece upper spring perches.

'''3.''' Upper spring perch "hat brim". The other portion of the upper spring perch.

'''4.''' Shock absorber rod, also known as the bit that goes in and out......

'''5.''' Strut body.

'''6.''' Lower Spring Perch, welded to the strut body.

[[Image:Ke1x_assy_no_spring_numbered.JPG]]

Note - spring is removed in this pic.

'''Deconstruction!'''

I'll skip the bit on how to pull the strut out of the car, thats fairly self explanatory. Unbolt things and pull it out. Hurt self, swear, etc.

Once the strut assembly is on the bench, you'll have to get the spring out. Like we mentioned earlier, its quite a soft spring, and you will be able to grab it with your hand and compress it enough to pop the bottom end off the perch:

[[Image:Spring_off_1.JPG]]

Once this is done you just need to wind the coil down off as far as you can get it:

[[Image:Spring_off_2.JPG]]

Now comes what can usually be a tricky task, undoing the large nut at the top of the strut that holds the upper perch and the strut top onto the shock. I used a piece of old bike tyre tube wrapped around the shaft with multigrips. Hit this with a rattlegun and its all done. This same method should work with a vice and a ratchet too.

[[Image:Rubber_and_multigrips.JPG]]

All apart:

[[Image:Removed.jpg]]

'''NOTE''' You don't necessarily need to wind the spring off, you can get the multigrips on the shaft while its in place, but its a handy trick for the future.

Now we can look at the spring perches side by side for a good idea of what this change will do. In the following pictures, the KE20 upper spring perch is on the left and the KE10 on the right. First thing you'll notice is that the KE10 item is made in 2 pieces, (items 2 and 3) whereas the KE20 is a single piece.

[[Image:Top comparison.JPG]]

The difference in height is clearly visible. What this means is that your body will sit lower by that 30 or so millimetres. The 5mm and 12 mm are the next problem. These collars are designed to sit up inside the strut top (item 1) against the bearing that allows the strut to rotate for steering. The 7mm difference between the KE20 item and the KE10 item mean that the new KE20 item will not mate with the bearing and you wont be able to steer.

To get around this, we need a spacer to make up that 7mm. This is the item I listed earlier, but I used an 8mm thick one just to be sure. Scott (ROL-110) just chopped the collar off the original KE10 item and welded it on. My spacer wasnt welded, I just slid it on over the shaft and bolted it all up.

Spacer (black) sitting in the strut top before sliding onto the shock shaft.

[[Image:Spacer fitted.JPG]]

This is the assembly fitted back together. Even with that extra millimetre on the spacer, the gap between the upper perch and the strut top is tight.

[[Image:New_top_in_place.JPG]]

'''Wrap Up'''

Thats essentially it. Bolt it all back together, taking care to align the ends of the springs in the recesses in the spring perches, and bolt it back together as you found it.

As mentioned in a post, you must use the KE1x Strut top, the KE20 items have a different bolt pattern and hence wont fit. In my mind, it was easier to use a simple spacer rather than try redrilling holes and upsetting geometry.

Now you have a lower car without messing too much with spring lengths and suspension travel (although I need to investigate if shock stroke has been affected).

In the future, I plan to build on this modification by putting in stiffer coil springs and removing the front leaf spring, so watch this space.

Once again, credit must be given to those whose information helped me to do this mod. I did a lot of digging and reading and its hard to name them all.

----

''Article by Philbey''

----

Back to [[Main_Page#KE1x_Suspension | KE1x Suspension]]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

File:New top in place.JPG

2008-05-21T14:12:42Z

Philbey: KE10 Strut with a KE20 upper spring perch fitted using a spacer.

KE10 Strut with a KE20 upper spring perch fitted using a spacer.

File:Spacer fitted.JPG

2008-05-21T14:06:25Z

Philbey: Spacer sitting inside strut top

Spacer sitting inside strut top

File:Top comparison.JPG

2008-05-21T13:56:44Z

Philbey: KE20 upper spring perch on the left, KE10 on the right

KE20 upper spring perch on the left, KE10 on the right

File:Removed.jpg

2008-05-21T13:51:17Z

Philbey:

Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts

2008-05-21T13:50:41Z

Philbey:

File:Removed.JPG

2008-05-21T13:43:18Z

Philbey: All apart

All apart

File:Rubber and multigrips.JPG

2008-05-21T13:37:26Z

Philbey: Rubber wrapped around shock rod to grip while you rattlegun it off

Rubber wrapped around shock rod to grip while you rattlegun it off

File:Spring off 2.JPG

2008-05-21T13:25:25Z

Philbey: Coil wound down strut body

Coil wound down strut body

Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts

2008-05-21T13:23:38Z

Philbey:

File:Spring off 1.JPG

2008-05-21T13:23:12Z

Philbey: Pic with the spring "popped" off the lower spring perch

Pic with the spring "popped" off the lower spring perch

Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts

2008-05-21T13:15:29Z

Philbey:

File:Ke1x assy no spring numbered.JPG

2008-05-21T13:12:23Z

Philbey: KE10 front strut with the spring removed. Numbered for explanation.

KE10 front strut with the spring removed. Numbered for explanation.

Main Page Old

2008-05-21T12:10:55Z

Philbey: /* Suspension */

KE1x Suspension Help

2008-05-21T12:10:33Z

Philbey: KE1x Suspension Help moved to Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x: Old name was confusing with the new menu structure for the suspension section.

#REDIRECT [[Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x]]

Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x

2008-05-21T12:10:33Z

Philbey: KE1x Suspension Help moved to Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x: Old name was confusing with the new menu structure for the suspension section.

Finding it hard to find Shock Absorbers for your KE1x series? Doug (aka Felix) has an answer:

''ke2/3/5x strut inserts will fit [a ke1x] with a 1" spacer.

if you have the original oil filled struts still, you are in luck. dismantle, take the inner cylinder and knock off the upper rod guide. bingo, you have a perfect sized spacer. slide the rod guide over the shock shaft of your new ke2/3/5x inserts and install into the strut bodies.''

Discussion to be made in this thread on the forums :

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=7224

Thanks to Felix for his wealth of information once again.

--[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 18:37, 20 Apr 2006 (EST)

Main Page Old

2008-05-21T12:08:16Z

Philbey: /* Suspension */

Main Page Old

2008-05-21T12:03:25Z

Philbey: /* Tech */

Main Page Old

2008-05-21T11:58:44Z

Philbey: /* Suspension */