Rollaclub - User contributions [en]

Front Disc Brakes

2006-07-19T21:11:38Z

219.240.12.173: /* General Information */

=General Information=

KE1x and 2x discs are 200mm x 10mm. KE3x discs are 218mm x 10mm. Australian KE55/70 discs are 218mm x 12mm.
The larger rotor provides more leverage for greater stopping power, the thicker disc provides better heat properties to resist brake fade. The Aus KE55/70 brakes also have a larger pad area.

The early cars had two types of Japanese calipers, PS type (small =O= looking piston body, open disc pad tops with large pad protector) and F type (small round piston body, closed disc pad cover with viewing hole). Aussie KE5x and KE70s had Girlock calipers, which can use brake pads from the rear of a VN Holden Commodore (good if you are hunting for performance pads). Stock part number is DB1086, Commodore part number is DB1088.

All discs are all interchangeable (the Corolla hubs are the same except for wheel stud pattern), or if you change hubs as well, KE1x and 2x have smaller inner wheel bearings than the later cars. If changing from smaller disc to larger disc, you will need caliper mounts from a KE30 or KE55, as KE70 caliper plates have a different stud pattern. On most KE1x/2x cars, you will have to drill a tap the caliper mounting plates to M10x1.25, as the later model plates use larger bolt holes to mount to the strut.
70560028268113791163428
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=Upgrades for KE1x=

Alex Bates has written a nice howto for upgrading to KE30 brakes. If using KE55/70 brakes, use those discs and calipers instead, with KE55 backing plates.

<i>These are the modifications I did to my 1968 KE10. Some of the points below are pretty basic but I thought I’d better include everything. I hope I haven’t missed anything!

Parts Required:
<tt>
2x KE20 front wheel hubs

(*MUST* be KE10/mazda stud pattern.) About $20 each

2x KE30 disc rotors. Really good ones will cost about $40 each.

2x KE30 disc calipers. About $30 each.

KE30 caliper/brake lines (rubber) Will come with the calipers.

2x KE30 caliper mounts/backing plates. About $10 each.

KE30 brake pads. About $20 a set.

Brake fluid of your choice $7 - $80 depending on what you buy.

KE10 wheel bearings (optional) About $20 or so each. (you want to buy two)
</tt>

Directions For Fitting:

1. Attach KE30 disc rotors to KE20 wheel hubs. This is by four 12mm or 14mm bolts. Make sure you do them up nice and tight.

2. Disconnect the brake lines to the front drum.

3. Remove the outer part of your front drum brake.

4. Prise off the locknut cover with a flat head screwdriver. This is the big knobby thing right there in the middle.

5. There should be four bolts within the brake assembly holding the assembly to the stub axle. Undo them.

6. Use a pair of pliers to remove the retaining pin from the locknut and undo it.

7. Remove drum assembly from car.

You should now be left with the drum assembly off the car and a front strut with no brakes on it. Now is a good time to replace wheel bearings.

8. Attach the backing plate to the four bolts that previously held the drum to the strut.

9. Get the hub/disc assembly you put together a few minutes ago.

10. Put this new assembly onto the stub axle.

11. Fit the locknut but not tight and don’t bother fitting the retaining pin yet.

12. Attach the caliper (and new pads) to the backing plate and over the disc.

13. Hook up the KE30 brake line onto the bracket on the KE10 strut (this will screw straight in).

14. Do up the locknut so the wheel will rotate freely but without wobbling around. Also put in the retaining pin.

15. Fit the wheel and do the same to the other side of the car.

16. Check all your bolts to make sure you did them up tight!

17. Bleed the brake system.

18. Do a test drive (drive slowly) to make sure everything works alright.

19. Don’t forget to be gentle on the brakes for a few days to let them bed in too.

The whole upgrade will be very cheap if you can buy all the parts at one place.</i>

=Upgrades for KE3x, 5x, 7x=

There are several popular brake upgrade options for these later model Corollas with Macpherson struts. Among them:

* Corona XT130/RT132 struts and brakes. These come in 2 flavours - either single pot or twin pot. For some photos, look at [http://fookseung.fotki.com/automotive-1/bodgy-1/corona_front_brake/ Corona front brake upgrade photos on Planet FookStar]
* The much-talked-about Peugeot 604 discs, Hilux/Landcruiser calipers, on XT130/RT132 struts. Effective, but rather heavy. For some photos, look at [http://fookseung.fotki.com/automotive-1/ke35/front_strut_setup/ Pug/Landcruiser brake upgrade on Planet FookStar]
* RX7 calipers and some sort of disc (?)
* Vented AE86 struts and brakes. This isn't really much of an upgrade as the AE86 brakes aren't overly big, and neither are the calipers, but it does help cooling.
* Magna discs, Commodore calipers (?)
* Silvia/200sx struts, brakes. This is apparently a fairly straightforward swap. For some photos, look at [http://fookseung.fotki.com/automotive-1/craigs_datsun_1200/ Craig's Datsun 1200 on Planet FookStar]
* If using Silvia/200sx struts, then the many many brake upgrade options from there (Skyline etc)

And here's another interesting upgrade by '''cwhelan''' on Toymods (many thanks for allowing me to mirror the information here). His main motivation was to upgrade his brakes, but stay with 13" rims. The [http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=msg&th=60416&start=0&rid=396&S=178fbc9a7de8e5713480cc46bc115c16 original thread can be found here]. And now I'm lazy, so I'm just going to cut and paste his quotes (with minor modifications to aid reading):

''Sorry about the delay lads, not on the net as much with all my study and work load. I will write up on exactly how I have gone so far. It is relatively simple, but does require a bit of stuffing around. Here's the breakdown as I have done it: Nissan pulsar SSS 1.6 vented disks, they are 17mm thick. I had the radius taken down by 1.6mm, and cost me $15 to do it. I got volvo 244 calipers which will work well under 13". I haven't finished the job yet. But from trial fitting with a template bracket made from MDF it all fits. There is a 2mm thick spacer that I have made for the centre of the calipers to open them up a bit more that needs to be fitted otherwise the disk would be too thick be 1mm. I am house-sitting for a month, as soon as I get back home I will take pics for those that would be interested. I have pilled so many caliper brackets and calipers appart and found these seem to be the only cofiguration to fit under the 13" jellybeans. Calliper brackets will have to be milled, but not expensive as I am told by my engineer. These are yet to be made, if it works out cost efective, I will make up a few more sets to sell with the laser cut spacers for the calipers. Don't expect anything too soon as I won't be home for a month.''

''So far it has cost me next to nothing, it cost me a good few hours though. It is just a matter of looking through the DBA catalogue and looking for a disk that will be an ok size and start from there. not many options on 4 spot calipers though. RX7 and Volvo will be the cheapest option. RX7 is the lighter of the two, but a little bit expensive, and not as easy to find for cheap. So Volvo 244/245 calpiers was the choice. Pulsar rotors are the same stud patern for bolting up to the hubs, and vented also. I had the diameter reduced in size in order to have all this fit under the 13" and still have space for a caliper bracket. I cut the caliper bracket lugs off of the XT130 struts and started designing a bracket out of MDF as a template for the engineer to mill up a couple for me. These have not been done yet, but will have them done soon. It aint easy juggling assignments and work with the car project. Anyways, hope this helps a bit. As I said before, I will try take some pics ASAP. In fact, I will be going home tomorrow night to get some things for an assignment, so I will try remember to take a few pictures then. Only thing is that I don't know how to post them up here. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction...''

''Sorry its taken awhile to reply to these questions, not easy using the net with the boss breathing down my neck. I had been working on this upgrade for quite some time now. I just went home yesterday to take some pics, There are going to be a few small chnges to what I have already done. I think the mounting flange was around 7.5mm (off the top of my memory). The "deck height" of the rotor is very similar to the xt130 rotor. The centre hole was about 2.5mm smaller than the xt130 centre hole.''

''I had an engineer true up the rotor and open the centre hole a little to be an H7/s6 fit. I can go into it in much better detail, and take photo's of the veiws you would like. This upgrade will be a very easy one to do if you want to give it a go. Its more time consuming trying to figure it all out than anything else. I am going to be changing the caliper bracket to make life a little easier again. the bracket in the pictures will work, but there is a bit of machining to be done to the face of the bracket plate. If you have worked with xt130 struts, you will know that where the fillets are at the rear of the strut to hub face (where I am showing the plate to be mounted) protrude a fair bit. These fillets cannot be skimmed down to make the bracket fit, as you would weaken the strut.''

''The Bracket I have just designed kind of looks like 2 10mm plates overlapping one another but shaped to suit the caliper and the mounting holes on the strut. I wanted to do this project with little machining as to affect the integrity of the strut.''

''The rotor mounts up to the hub exactly the same way as the ke55 and xt130 hub. I have priced these rotors up from new, and was quoted $64ea which isnt too bad at all. Volvo do a recon swap over for only $120, so it is advisable to keep the caliper stock and just tee off the twin lines. Pretty easy and very inexpensive.''

And here are some photos:

<gallery>
Image:Resizeofpic1strut.jpg|Caliper mounting lugs cut off strut
Image:Resizeofpic2strut.jpg|Templates
Image:Resizeofpic3strut.jpg|Template on strut
Image:Resizeofpic4strut.jpg|Template and caliper on strut
Image:Resizeofpic5strut.jpg|Toyota XT130 strut, Pulsar SSS Rotor, Volvo 244 Caliper
Image:Picture(78).jpg|4mm gap between caliper and wheel
Image:Picture(79).jpg
Image:ResizeofPicture(80).jpg|Caliper bracket on strut
Image:ResizeofPicture(81).jpg
Image:ResizeofPicture(82).jpg
Image:ResizeofPicture(83).jpg
Image:ResizeofPicture(84).jpg|1mm gap between caliper bracket and rotor
Image:ResizeofPicture(87).jpg
</gallery>

Back to [[Main_Page#Brakes| Brakes]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Front Disc Brakes

2006-07-15T18:21:13Z

219.240.12.173: /* General Information */

=General Information=

KE1x and 2x discs are 200mm x 10mm. KE3x discs are 218mm x 10mm. Australian KE55/70 discs are 218mm x 12mm.
The larger rotor provides more leverage for greater stopping power, the thicker disc provides better heat properties to resist brake fade. The Aus KE55/70 brakes also have a larger pad area.

The early cars had two types of Japanese calipers, PS type (small =O= looking piston body, open disc pad tops with large pad protector) and F type (small round piston body, closed disc pad cover with viewing hole). Aussie KE5x and KE70s had Girlock calipers, which can use brake pads from the rear of a VN Holden Commodore (good if you are hunting for performance pads). Stock part number is DB1086, Commodore part number is DB1088.

All discs are all interchangeable (the Corolla hubs are the same except for wheel stud pattern), or if you change hubs as well, KE1x and 2x have smaller inner wheel bearings than the later cars. If changing from smaller disc to larger disc, you will need caliper mounts from a KE30 or KE55, as KE70 caliper plates have a different stud pattern. On most KE1x/2x cars, you will have to drill a tap the caliper mounting plates to M10x1.25, as the later model plates use larger bolt holes to mount to the strut.
70560028268113791163428
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=Upgrades for KE1x=

Alex Bates has written a nice howto for upgrading to KE30 brakes. If using KE55/70 brakes, use those discs and calipers instead, with KE55 backing plates.

<i>These are the modifications I did to my 1968 KE10. Some of the points below are pretty basic but I thought I’d better include everything. I hope I haven’t missed anything!

Parts Required:
<tt>
2x KE20 front wheel hubs

(*MUST* be KE10/mazda stud pattern.) About $20 each

2x KE30 disc rotors. Really good ones will cost about $40 each.

2x KE30 disc calipers. About $30 each.

KE30 caliper/brake lines (rubber) Will come with the calipers.

2x KE30 caliper mounts/backing plates. About $10 each.

KE30 brake pads. About $20 a set.

Brake fluid of your choice $7 - $80 depending on what you buy.

KE10 wheel bearings (optional) About $20 or so each. (you want to buy two)
</tt>

Directions For Fitting:

1. Attach KE30 disc rotors to KE20 wheel hubs. This is by four 12mm or 14mm bolts. Make sure you do them up nice and tight.

2. Disconnect the brake lines to the front drum.

3. Remove the outer part of your front drum brake.

4. Prise off the locknut cover with a flat head screwdriver. This is the big knobby thing right there in the middle.

5. There should be four bolts within the brake assembly holding the assembly to the stub axle. Undo them.

6. Use a pair of pliers to remove the retaining pin from the locknut and undo it.

7. Remove drum assembly from car.

You should now be left with the drum assembly off the car and a front strut with no brakes on it. Now is a good time to replace wheel bearings.

8. Attach the backing plate to the four bolts that previously held the drum to the strut.

9. Get the hub/disc assembly you put together a few minutes ago.

10. Put this new assembly onto the stub axle.

11. Fit the locknut but not tight and don’t bother fitting the retaining pin yet.

12. Attach the caliper (and new pads) to the backing plate and over the disc.

13. Hook up the KE30 brake line onto the bracket on the KE10 strut (this will screw straight in).

14. Do up the locknut so the wheel will rotate freely but without wobbling around. Also put in the retaining pin.

15. Fit the wheel and do the same to the other side of the car.

16. Check all your bolts to make sure you did them up tight!

17. Bleed the brake system.

18. Do a test drive (drive slowly) to make sure everything works alright.

19. Don’t forget to be gentle on the brakes for a few days to let them bed in too.

The whole upgrade will be very cheap if you can buy all the parts at one place.</i>

=Upgrades for KE3x, 5x, 7x=

There are several popular brake upgrade options for these later model Corollas with Macpherson struts. Among them:

* Corona XT130/RT132 struts and brakes. These come in 2 flavours - either single pot or twin pot. For some photos, look at [http://fookseung.fotki.com/automotive-1/bodgy-1/corona_front_brake/ Corona front brake upgrade photos on Planet FookStar]
* The much-talked-about Peugeot 604 discs, Hilux/Landcruiser calipers, on XT130/RT132 struts. Effective, but rather heavy. For some photos, look at [http://fookseung.fotki.com/automotive-1/ke35/front_strut_setup/ Pug/Landcruiser brake upgrade on Planet FookStar]
* RX7 calipers and some sort of disc (?)
* Vented AE86 struts and brakes. This isn't really much of an upgrade as the AE86 brakes aren't overly big, and neither are the calipers, but it does help cooling.
* Magna discs, Commodore calipers (?)
* Silvia/200sx struts, brakes. This is apparently a fairly straightforward swap. For some photos, look at [http://fookseung.fotki.com/automotive-1/craigs_datsun_1200/ Craig's Datsun 1200 on Planet FookStar]
* If using Silvia/200sx struts, then the many many brake upgrade options from there (Skyline etc)

And here's another interesting upgrade by '''cwhelan''' on Toymods (many thanks for allowing me to mirror the information here). His main motivation was to upgrade his brakes, but stay with 13" rims. The [http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=msg&th=60416&start=0&rid=396&S=178fbc9a7de8e5713480cc46bc115c16 original thread can be found here]. And now I'm lazy, so I'm just going to cut and paste his quotes (with minor modifications to aid reading):

''Sorry about the delay lads, not on the net as much with all my study and work load. I will write up on exactly how I have gone so far. It is relatively simple, but does require a bit of stuffing around. Here's the breakdown as I have done it: Nissan pulsar SSS 1.6 vented disks, they are 17mm thick. I had the radius taken down by 1.6mm, and cost me $15 to do it. I got volvo 244 calipers which will work well under 13". I haven't finished the job yet. But from trial fitting with a template bracket made from MDF it all fits. There is a 2mm thick spacer that I have made for the centre of the calipers to open them up a bit more that needs to be fitted otherwise the disk would be too thick be 1mm. I am house-sitting for a month, as soon as I get back home I will take pics for those that would be interested. I have pilled so many caliper brackets and calipers appart and found these seem to be the only cofiguration to fit under the 13" jellybeans. Calliper brackets will have to be milled, but not expensive as I am told by my engineer. These are yet to be made, if it works out cost efective, I will make up a few more sets to sell with the laser cut spacers for the calipers. Don't expect anything too soon as I won't be home for a month.''

''So far it has cost me next to nothing, it cost me a good few hours though. It is just a matter of looking through the DBA catalogue and looking for a disk that will be an ok size and start from there. not many options on 4 spot calipers though. RX7 and Volvo will be the cheapest option. RX7 is the lighter of the two, but a little bit expensive, and not as easy to find for cheap. So Volvo 244/245 calpiers was the choice. Pulsar rotors are the same stud patern for bolting up to the hubs, and vented also. I had the diameter reduced in size in order to have all this fit under the 13" and still have space for a caliper bracket. I cut the caliper bracket lugs off of the XT130 struts and started designing a bracket out of MDF as a template for the engineer to mill up a couple for me. These have not been done yet, but will have them done soon. It aint easy juggling assignments and work with the car project. Anyways, hope this helps a bit. As I said before, I will try take some pics ASAP. In fact, I will be going home tomorrow night to get some things for an assignment, so I will try remember to take a few pictures then. Only thing is that I don't know how to post them up here. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction...''

''Sorry its taken awhile to reply to these questions, not easy using the net with the boss breathing down my neck. I had been working on this upgrade for quite some time now. I just went home yesterday to take some pics, There are going to be a few small chnges to what I have already done. I think the mounting flange was around 7.5mm (off the top of my memory). The "deck height" of the rotor is very similar to the xt130 rotor. The centre hole was about 2.5mm smaller than the xt130 centre hole.''

''I had an engineer true up the rotor and open the centre hole a little to be an H7/s6 fit. I can go into it in much better detail, and take photo's of the veiws you would like. This upgrade will be a very easy one to do if you want to give it a go. Its more time consuming trying to figure it all out than anything else. I am going to be changing the caliper bracket to make life a little easier again. the bracket in the pictures will work, but there is a bit of machining to be done to the face of the bracket plate. If you have worked with xt130 struts, you will know that where the fillets are at the rear of the strut to hub face (where I am showing the plate to be mounted) protrude a fair bit. These fillets cannot be skimmed down to make the bracket fit, as you would weaken the strut.''

''The Bracket I have just designed kind of looks like 2 10mm plates overlapping one another but shaped to suit the caliper and the mounting holes on the strut. I wanted to do this project with little machining as to affect the integrity of the strut.''

''The rotor mounts up to the hub exactly the same way as the ke55 and xt130 hub. I have priced these rotors up from new, and was quoted $64ea which isnt too bad at all. Volvo do a recon swap over for only $120, so it is advisable to keep the caliper stock and just tee off the twin lines. Pretty easy and very inexpensive.''

And here are some photos:

<gallery>
Image:Resizeofpic1strut.jpg|Caliper mounting lugs cut off strut
Image:Resizeofpic2strut.jpg|Templates
Image:Resizeofpic3strut.jpg|Template on strut
Image:Resizeofpic4strut.jpg|Template and caliper on strut
Image:Resizeofpic5strut.jpg|Toyota XT130 strut, Pulsar SSS Rotor, Volvo 244 Caliper
Image:Picture(78).jpg|4mm gap between caliper and wheel
Image:Picture(79).jpg
Image:ResizeofPicture(80).jpg|Caliper bracket on strut
Image:ResizeofPicture(81).jpg
Image:ResizeofPicture(82).jpg
Image:ResizeofPicture(83).jpg
Image:ResizeofPicture(84).jpg|1mm gap between caliper bracket and rotor
Image:ResizeofPicture(87).jpg
</gallery>

Back to [[Main_Page#Brakes| Brakes]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Tech:Engine/K Series/EFI

2006-07-13T20:21:39Z

219.240.12.173: /* 4K-E */

K series engines at one point or another did come with factory fitted EFI also known as Electronic Fuel Injection. These only ever came on the 4K and 7K engines. Both of which can be obtained if you look hard enough.

== 4K-E ==

KP60 series Starlets which were delivered in America, Europe, Japan and New Zealand came with the 4K-E engine, sporting a blistering 1290cc of displacement. The EFI system consisted of very long intake runners so that the throttle body could be located further away from the exhaust manifold, which oddly sits on top of the rocker cover.

[[Image:4ketop.jpg]]

The oil cap filler neck had to be extended about ~60mm (~2 inches) or so taller to clear these runners as it is located at the rear of the engine on the 4K-E. If you get a 4K-E injection setup DONT FORGET THE ROCKER COVER otherwise you'll never get oil into it without hassle.

Fuel delivery is taken care of by some VERY tiny Nippon Denso 145cc "green top" Injectors which are top feed and low impedance 2.4 ohm. ''It is also worth noting that at stock fuel rail pressure and 80% duty cycle the standard 145cc 4K-E injectors would only support 92.8 horsepower at the flywheel. After that you should either try to raise fuel rail pressure or upgrade to a similar top-feed low impedance injector to suit your desired power level.''

Performance wise, the 4K-E made the same peak power as the 4K-C, The difference was that the 4K-E made peak power 1000rpm quicker at 4200rpm. Compression was raised to 9.5:1 and torque output quoted from Toyota is 74 lb-ft@3400 rpm compared to the 4K-C which only made 67 lb-ft@3600 rpm.

The design itself is quite innovative but prone to some design weaknesses which should be considered before you decide to use a 4KE injection setup on an engine that will be built for big power. A 4K-E is generally fine to use up to about 90 Horsepower (measured at the flywheel) on a naturally aspirated engine. With a forced induction engine you may be able to milk another 20 horsepower out of the 4KE but the restriction lies in the exhaust half of the head, not so much inlet side on a forced induction (Turbocharged, Supercharged, Nitrous Oxide) engines.

Points to consider when building a 4K-E for bigger power

* Injector Size. These injectors are quite small and will require upgrading to larger sizes to ''support'' incresed output from the EFI setup
* 4KE Computer (ECU) isn't reprogrammable so any major change in engine output, induction, injection etc will most surely require some form of Aftermarket ECU.
* Restriction of inlet design - Inlet at mouth is only ??mm wide.
* Length of runners - may result in air/fuel mixture "pooling" back into liquid fuel before it hits the combustion chamber which will mess with air/fuel ratios.
* Runners prone to "heat soak"
* Restriction of head itself - K series heads are not reknowned for attaining decent flow rates.
* Airflow meter - 4KE uses and airflow meter to show the ECU air/fuel ratios, better airflow would be found by ditching this and converting to a MAP sensor configuration.

Availability : It is common to see 4KE injection systems going on ebay for anywhere between AUS $50 - 250 depending on how complete they are and how many people have found out about the auction. Recently Australian's have discovered that many KP6x series starlets are coming to the end of their lifespan in New Zealand and I know that I personallt hear of about ~10 units per year are being imported into Australia with that number steadily increasing.

Troubleshooting : After many years of searching, I am pleased to announce that Rollaclub now hosts an electronic (Adobe PDF) version of the KP6x Starlet "EFI" manual on our server. This was scanned with many thanks to our friends in the USA and can be located in the Reference section of this FAQ : [[http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Reference_Material Reference Section]]

Not only that, but I know that some our very friendly members (the "TRD" Brothers) have recently purchased a Toyota FACTORY manual for the 4KE KP Starlets and they intend on scanning it and sharing very shortly. It covers *everything* not just the EFI system in the 4KE PDF guide above.
53015484219597557510922
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== 7K-E ==

My knowledge of the 7K-E only extends to those delivered in Australia, I have not been informed of any 7K-E engines delivered outside of that area, if you do know of any other regions, please contact me so I can update this entry.

'''UPDATE : I have been in contact with a person in SRI LANKA who owns a KR42 Van with a 7KE!'''

I have also scanned a copy of the 7KE Manual which may be downloaded directly from here:

http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/7KE-manual.pdf (50.1 megabytes large)

The 7K was the final revision of the Toyota K series engine before it was dropped from production in 2002. Boasting 1800cc and plenty of torque, this was an engine designed for and destined to be used in Toyota's Commercial series mini-vans. These can be found by searching for any later model Toyota Vans whose chassis codes begin with ''KR4xxxxxx''

Essentially the 7K block was just a revised 5K (1500cc) design with identical piston width and specs? but the 7K was "stroked" ~300cc larger overall. This meant an engine with plenty of torque (pulling power) but not intended for huge revs or racing.

There was also a 7K-C (Carburettor) version earlier on, with the main difference being crank diameter was a couple of millimeters larger in the EFI engines to handle the higher torque. Also there are some holes in the 7K-E head that don't exist in any of the other K engines.

With a bonus for people with KE** chassis id'd cars, these engines are a much more straight forward "bolt-in" option (compared with Twincam installations) with the promise of Bigger Torque, Bigger Power and the best benefit of EFI !

The 7K-E inlet setup features a much shorter and efficient runner design than the 4K-E did.

[[Image:7ke1.jpg]]

[[Image:7ke2.jpg]]

[[Image:7ke3.jpg]]

Once again, modifying a 7K-E injection setup will require a little bit of forward thinking and planning, but at the end of the day, this setup could quite easily run forced induction with an aftermarket ECU and a well designed exhaust manifold - you would of course want to make that all "low-mounted" and heat sheilded due to the fact that the Inlet and Exhaust is all on the same side with K Series engines.

Availability : It is becoming more common to hear about them now, but mostly people steer clear of the "truck" engine :) I would love to hear from other people using 4K-E and 7KE series engines in ''whatever'' application as it interests me quite a bit. Once again, these sell on ebay for varying amounts and at one stage or another, some of our members have owned / played with a 7KE setup.

Here is a link to a PDF file of a 7K-E setup that sold on ebay, showing that there is much demand for EFI setups [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/7ke-ebay.PDF 7KE on Ebay]

Troubleshooting : I do know of someone who has access to the Toyota factory 7KE manual, and obviously being a newer engine a lot of dealerships would still have to carry it. UPDATE : We have a copy hosted now - http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/7KE-manual.pdf (50.1MB in size)

== Aftermarket EFI ==

These are available but probably easy enough to find if you know where to look. The "TRD Brothers" have one which is for sale at the moment and is controlled by a "LINK" aftermarket ECU. It is a quad (individual) Throttle body design.

== D.I.Y. EFI ==

It might even be easy enough to make one of these yourself if you had access to the correct skills and tools to machine one. It is an idea that I would love to explore further myself. The hardest part would be creating the intake manifold to house the injector bosses and working out some form of quad throttle body butterfly and throttle position sensor system. You would also want to investigate incorperating a MAP sensor system somehow.

This is all I can think of right now, please contact me to help correct errors or to add some information of your own.

Cheers

--[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 10:22, 18 Jul 2005 (EST)

Front Disc Brakes

2006-07-13T00:05:04Z

219.240.12.173: /* General Information */

Tech:Engine/K Series/EFI

2006-07-12T23:49:46Z

219.240.12.173: /* 4K-E */

K series engines at one point or another did come with factory fitted EFI also known as Electronic Fuel Injection. These only ever came on the 4K and 7K engines. Both of which can be obtained if you look hard enough.

== 4K-E ==

KP60 series Starlets which were delivered in America, Europe, Japan and New Zealand came with the 4K-E engine, sporting a blistering 1290cc of displacement. The EFI system consisted of very long intake runners so that the throttle body could be located further away from the exhaust manifold, which oddly sits on top of the rocker cover.

[[Image:4ketop.jpg]]

The oil cap filler neck had to be extended about ~60mm (~2 inches) or so taller to clear these runners as it is located at the rear of the engine on the 4K-E. If you get a 4K-E injection setup DONT FORGET THE ROCKER COVER otherwise you'll never get oil into it without hassle.

Fuel delivery is taken care of by some VERY tiny Nippon Denso 145cc "green top" Injectors which are top feed and low impedance 2.4 ohm. ''It is also worth noting that at stock fuel rail pressure and 80% duty cycle the standard 145cc 4K-E injectors would only support 92.8 horsepower at the flywheel. After that you should either try to raise fuel rail pressure or upgrade to a similar top-feed low impedance injector to suit your desired power level.''

Performance wise, the 4K-E made the same peak power as the 4K-C, The difference was that the 4K-E made peak power 1000rpm quicker at 4200rpm. Compression was raised to 9.5:1 and torque output quoted from Toyota is 74 lb-ft@3400 rpm compared to the 4K-C which only made 67 lb-ft@3600 rpm.

The design itself is quite innovative but prone to some design weaknesses which should be considered before you decide to use a 4KE injection setup on an engine that will be built for big power. A 4K-E is generally fine to use up to about 90 Horsepower (measured at the flywheel) on a naturally aspirated engine. With a forced induction engine you may be able to milk another 20 horsepower out of the 4KE but the restriction lies in the exhaust half of the head, not so much inlet side on a forced induction (Turbocharged, Supercharged, Nitrous Oxide) engines.

Points to consider when building a 4K-E for bigger power

* Injector Size. These injectors are quite small and will require upgrading to larger sizes to ''support'' incresed output from the EFI setup
* 4KE Computer (ECU) isn't reprogrammable so any major change in engine output, induction, injection etc will most surely require some form of Aftermarket ECU.
* Restriction of inlet design - Inlet at mouth is only ??mm wide.
* Length of runners - may result in air/fuel mixture "pooling" back into liquid fuel before it hits the combustion chamber which will mess with air/fuel ratios.
* Runners prone to "heat soak"
* Restriction of head itself - K series heads are not reknowned for attaining decent flow rates.
* Airflow meter - 4KE uses and airflow meter to show the ECU air/fuel ratios, better airflow would be found by ditching this and converting to a MAP sensor configuration.

Availability : It is common to see 4KE injection systems going on ebay for anywhere between AUS $50 - 250 depending on how complete they are and how many people have found out about the auction. Recently Australian's have discovered that many KP6x series starlets are coming to the end of their lifespan in New Zealand and I know that I personallt hear of about ~10 units per year are being imported into Australia with that number steadily increasing.

Troubleshooting : After many years of searching, I am pleased to announce that Rollaclub now hosts an electronic (Adobe PDF) version of the KP6x Starlet "EFI" manual on our server. This was scanned with many thanks to our friends in the USA and can be located in the Reference section of this FAQ : [[http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Reference_Material Reference Section]]

Not only that, but I know that some our very friendly members (the "TRD" Brothers) have recently purchased a Toyota FACTORY manual for the 4KE KP Starlets and they intend on scanning it and sharing very shortly. It covers *everything* not just the EFI system in the 4KE PDF guide above.
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== 7K-E ==

My knowledge of the 7K-E only extends to those delivered in Australia, I have not been informed of any 7K-E engines delivered outside of that area, if you do know of any other regions, please contact me so I can update this entry.

'''UPDATE : I have been in contact with a person in SRI LANKA who owns a KR42 Van with a 7KE!'''

I have also scanned a copy of the 7KE Manual which may be downloaded directly from here:

http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/7KE-manual.pdf (50.1 megabytes large)

The 7K was the final revision of the Toyota K series engine before it was dropped from production in 2002. Boasting 1800cc and plenty of torque, this was an engine designed for and destined to be used in Toyota's Commercial series mini-vans. These can be found by searching for any later model Toyota Vans whose chassis codes begin with ''KR4xxxxxx''

Essentially the 7K block was just a revised 5K (1500cc) design with identical piston width and specs? but the 7K was "stroked" ~300cc larger overall. This meant an engine with plenty of torque (pulling power) but not intended for huge revs or racing.

There was also a 7K-C (Carburettor) version earlier on, with the main difference being crank diameter was a couple of millimeters larger in the EFI engines to handle the higher torque. Also there are some holes in the 7K-E head that don't exist in any of the other K engines.

With a bonus for people with KE** chassis id'd cars, these engines are a much more straight forward "bolt-in" option (compared with Twincam installations) with the promise of Bigger Torque, Bigger Power and the best benefit of EFI !

The 7K-E inlet setup features a much shorter and efficient runner design than the 4K-E did.

[[Image:7ke1.jpg]]

[[Image:7ke2.jpg]]

[[Image:7ke3.jpg]]

Once again, modifying a 7K-E injection setup will require a little bit of forward thinking and planning, but at the end of the day, this setup could quite easily run forced induction with an aftermarket ECU and a well designed exhaust manifold - you would of course want to make that all "low-mounted" and heat sheilded due to the fact that the Inlet and Exhaust is all on the same side with K Series engines.

Availability : It is becoming more common to hear about them now, but mostly people steer clear of the "truck" engine :) I would love to hear from other people using 4K-E and 7KE series engines in ''whatever'' application as it interests me quite a bit. Once again, these sell on ebay for varying amounts and at one stage or another, some of our members have owned / played with a 7KE setup.

Here is a link to a PDF file of a 7K-E setup that sold on ebay, showing that there is much demand for EFI setups [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/7ke-ebay.PDF 7KE on Ebay]

Troubleshooting : I do know of someone who has access to the Toyota factory 7KE manual, and obviously being a newer engine a lot of dealerships would still have to carry it. UPDATE : We have a copy hosted now - http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/7KE-manual.pdf (50.1MB in size)

== Aftermarket EFI ==

These are available but probably easy enough to find if you know where to look. The "TRD Brothers" have one which is for sale at the moment and is controlled by a "LINK" aftermarket ECU. It is a quad (individual) Throttle body design.

== D.I.Y. EFI ==

It might even be easy enough to make one of these yourself if you had access to the correct skills and tools to machine one. It is an idea that I would love to explore further myself. The hardest part would be creating the intake manifold to house the injector bosses and working out some form of quad throttle body butterfly and throttle position sensor system. You would also want to investigate incorperating a MAP sensor system somehow.

This is all I can think of right now, please contact me to help correct errors or to add some information of your own.

Cheers

--[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 10:22, 18 Jul 2005 (EST)

Front Disc Brakes

2006-07-11T13:01:53Z

219.240.12.173: /* General Information */

Front Disc Brakes

2006-07-09T18:16:08Z

219.240.12.173: /* General Information */